Written by Megan aka MPH

If you're not looking for a show car finish, it's not that difficult to prep and paint. Just time consuming.

If your paint is in decent condition (like mostly still there!), find your local auto paint dealer and purchase some red scotch brite pads. It's cheaper to buy them by the case, and you'll use them in the shop for other things eventually. thoroughly scuff every inch of your jeep. Make sure that it's scuffed to the point that there's no shine left to the paint. If you're not fixing any dents, you can paint at this point. (directions follow later)

If you have dent/rust repairs, Sand with 80 grit paper ( use a DA sander if you've got one. It's worth buying a cheap one if you don't), apply filler, then sand that with 80. Leave the filler a little high, then come back with 220 grit. Still leave it a little high. Spray 2 coats of 2K urethane high build primer, then take a spray can of fast drying black paint and hold the can back about 8" from the repair and lightly fog a coat on the primer. You just want a vague speckled effect.( if you put it on too heavily, it's a bear to sand and clogs your paper!) This is called a guide coat. It gives you visual to find high and low spots on your repair. Let it dry, then take a sheet of 220 Wet/Dry paper. Lay it flat on the hood, place a Paint paddle on it and roll it up tightly. This gives you a flat sanding block to help keep you from sanding grooves into the repair. Block with the 220 until you can see that most of the black speck is gone. When the paper gets clogged, just flip your paddle over, next time it gets clogged, rip off the to used edges and keep going. Now you can see low spots (where there is still black) or high spots (where everything else still has specks, but one spot doesn't) Apply two more coats of primer, fog the black on again, then block again with 220, just enough to cut the primer, then switch to 320. 320 is the finest grit you really need to use before painting, unless it's really cold.

Once your repair is blocking out flat, you're good with it. It may take several coats of primer before you get the hang of it.

When all repairs are done, you need to seal the entire vehicle. Even if no repairs are done. This will give you an even base for your paint, which will mean you use less paint to achieve good hiding. There are sealers available that don't have to be mixed. Just tell the paint store that you want a ready to spray sealer. Buy a cheap spray gun. I like the gravity feed guns, but a siphon feed is good too. I used them for years. You don't need anything high dollar, a $30 gun will work. a $100 gun is more pleasant to use. You don't need my $400 gun!

Wipe the whole thing down with a paint friendly degreaser. Get it at the paint store, don't use stuff marketed for wood paints. Make sure that you ask the paint dealer, what pressure you should use to spray the sealer. Pressure depends on the product, and the type of gun. (gravity feed, siphon or pressure, HVLP) Find an old hood, fender etc. to practice on. You'll need to play with the fluid adjustment needle and fan pattern to get it to spray an even pattern without running. When you feel like you've got it, you're ready to start painting.

Usually, I start with the top. You've got to keep moving from one side of the vehicle to the other, or your paint edges will start to dry and leave a dry looking area in the finished product.

Spray the roof in 2 or four quadrants, depending on what you can reach. Stand on a crate and move your gun back and forth like you are spraying to figure out how far you can reach. For a Jeepster, I'd start with the left rear quadrant, then move over to the right rear, up to the left front, then the right front.

Move to the back and spray the rear of the hard top, then the tailgate area. Next...left rear of hard top and left quarter panel to the door. Then right side. Then left door, right door. Then hood (I'm short, I have to do left side of hood, then right) Finish with the fenders. (that way you don't accidentally lean on a wet fender while spraying the hood!!!)

Always keep your air hose in your other hand, so it doesn't drag through the paint.

Once the sealer is on, let it dry according to manufacturers directions. Usually about 30 minutes. Then apply the paint the same way. You'll need to readjust your gun, because the paint will be thicker than the sealer. I'd probably use a single stage urethane enamel paint. (Use hardener with it. Some folks don't, but it will last longer, and if you ever paint it again, it will be MUCH easier to sand. Without hardener, the paint just melts under a sander!) It's kind of a mid-grade, but holds up well, and sprays well. All of the major manufacturers have their own lines, and they're all good quality. PPG, Sherwin Williams, DuPont, whatever.

Make sure you tape the vehicle carefully. Don't use newspaper, the paint will bleed through. Get a roll of 18" making paper, and a roll of 6" to tape the door jambs with. (don't want paint blowing into the car!) Do your taping the day before you spray, and give yourself all day to spray, so you don't get in a hurry.

Probably more than you wanted to know, but if you have questions, let me know. And ask the paint dealer for product recommendations. Oh, and clean the gun thoroughly when you're done, and leave little thinner in the gun. You can get cheap clean up thinner, rather than using the expensive stuff that you mix in the paint.